Why keep them secret?
Swimming Holes and Beaches of Southwestern British Columbia, including the Gulf Islands and Vancouver Island
by Alex McKeen and George Harwood Smith
Vancouver: Greystone Books, 2025
$26.95 / 9781778401336
Reviewed by Christina Johnson-Dean
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Yes! Yes! Yes! A book with swimming places either a few minutes away or no more than a half day’s drive! I know: I am blessed with where I live, and this book confirms it. As you can guess, an important criterion for a place to live or visit is where I can immerse myself in water and swim. So, this book delivers in many ways.
First of all, the spirit in which it is presented: every swim site names the First Nation on whose territory it is located. The one that I liked is Sxotsaqel or “sacred lake” in the language of the Ts’elxweyeqw or Chilliwack peoples. In 2021 Chilliwack Lake Park was re-named Sxotsaqel/Chilliwack Lake Park in recognition of the first peoples of the area, “to whom the park’s ground and waters still hold traditional and spiritual value”. Prior to colonization, Ts’elxweyeqw villages were all around the Chilliwack valley. Now it is listed as the “Best of” for camping and swimming as well as a long swim. It’s a place to keep you tuned in to higher levels of being.
Sacred lakes and lands, as well as traditional and spiritual values, are concepts that bring us to the second valuable framework for talking about being in nature and the conduct or etiquette that is so important for environmental protection and peaceful relations. The introduction starts with “dive in,” but before you are introduced to swim sites, social responsibility is reviewed. It’s crucial to be aware that one’s favourite city music played loudly may not be pleasant or healthy for other human beings nor the wildlife. We have all heard “leave no trace” – that includes your litter, garbage, human, and dog poop. It seems like a no-brainer, but even at my local park, removing their dog’s poop is clearly a challenge for some people – they may pick up the poop but then toss it into the bushes, plastic bag and all! We also see the remains of party time, especially in September and June. It’s no fun to arrive at a spot with someone else’s mess.
For each site there are clear directions about how to get there. Though every recommendation is public, there is the reminder that you may be near private land so it’s critical to stay on the trail and respect private property. Though your electronic maps can show you the route, the book gives more details about the road conditions, signs, and wildlife that you can encounter. With many people now not owning/using personal cars due to cost or concerns for their carbon footprint, the book includes bike routes and access via public transportation for most sites. Bravo!
Much of the introduction addresses swimming safety, and there are additional specifics for each site. The top tips are tried and true, including swimming with a buddy (and leaving word with someone so if Search and Rescue is needed, they have an idea of where you are). Carry a swim kit (the authors, Toronto Star journalist Alex McKeen and UK-based curator George Harwood Smith, have included a list), being aware of your surroundings (assess the water for currents/tides, submerged items, slippery rocks, warnings of bacterial counts, wildlife such as geese, bears, and seals who may be spying on you, etc.), safe entries and exits, acclimatizing to cold water (and cold-water shock). The latter is of special note because many swim places in BC are in cold ocean water or are fed by glacier water. Though some swim lakes have no motorized boats, there are numerous ones popular for water skiing, jet skiing etc. So, if you are swimming outside a designated area, consider having a swim buoy, so you are visible. Take care after swimming by drying off, getting dressed if cold, having water or a snack. Here was a new term for me: “afterdrop.” When swimming in cold water, blood vessels constrict so that more blood is in your core; thus, when you leave the water, the colder blood from your limbs and skin begins to circulate more freely, which can cause light-headedness and shivering.) Gear for longer swims, like wetsuits, are recommended and described for a number of places.
Under Environmentally Responsible Swimming, planning and preparing come first. At the beginning of each swim site, there is a quick summary of an Ideal trip (day trip or overnight, family or adventurer), water depth and difficulty, swimming distances, elevation (especially if there is a hike), and amenities (parking, washrooms/latrines, picnic tables, docks, campsites, dog areas, children’s playgrounds, docks, concessions, etc.) They recommend traveling and camping on durable surfaces – in other words, using established roads and trails. When people bushwhack, they can fragment a habitat or destabilize a bank causing erosion. Dispose of waste properly – take out what you bring in, even the compostable which can introduce invasive seeds or be unhealthy for wildlife. Be aware that sunscreens, deodorants, and bug sprays can be significant polluters in small bodies of water. One suggestion is to rinse with a bottle of water on shore, where there is less chance of polluting a lake or river, which may be upstream from people’s water supply. If you are in a more remote area (where there are no latrines or toilets), bring a trowel for digging a hole at least 15 cm deep and 70 meters away from water sources or trails. Leave what you find – the beach will be devoid of shells if everyone takes a souvenir. Some things may be part of First Nations culture or another historic site – take a photo of the object instead. Minimize campfire impacts – with fire bans and increasing wildfires, caution is obvious. Be aware that even in cooler, wet seasons, fires can affect plants and animals. And smokers – be warned that your waste is not healthy for any of us! Respect wildlife – it’s not just the spawning salmon, but the whole ecosystem – reptiles, amphibians, insects. All is connected. The dam that was fun to create on a creek may be life-threatening to insects that fish need to survive. It is all summed up with “Be Considerate of Others” – not just people, but plants, animals, minerals, habitats.
After these reminders the lists “Best of” hone in on specific tastes – best for long swims, camping and swimming, sunsets, cold dips, or clothing-optional. In the “How to Use this Book” section, there are quick details on map symbols used (e.g. parking, camping, roads, trails, accessibility), checking water depth, identifying difficulty levels, swimming distances, and, very usefully, amenities. For each part, there is a map that shows where each site is located, as well as ideas for extending and enriching your trip.
Though I am most familiar with the areas of Southern Vancouver Island (Victoria, Saanich, Sooke, West Shore, Cowichan, and nearby Gulf Islands) I realize that I have been lucky enough to have swum in every area in the book, including Central Vancouver Island (Nanaimo to Ucluelet and Qualicum to Campbell River), Metro Vancouver, Sea to Sky (the road to Whistler), Fraser Valley (TransCanada Highway 1 towards Hope) and the Sunshine Coast (along Highway 101 north of Vancouver). What natural and swimming wealth we have in just a small part of our province!
The closest beach recommended in the book to my home is Willows Beach in the Victoria suburb of Oak Bay. As the cairn (one of many funded by the late Marion Cummings) there
indicates, it was an important village for the Lekwungen-speaking people (now called the Songhees Nation, who along with the Esquimalt Nation continue their traditional ways in our area). Called Sitchanalth, it is believed to have had a population of 10,000 until a tsunami occurred in about 930 C.E. Not mentioned in the book (perhaps because it is mainly open only in the warmer months), but a big hit with my grandchildren, is the Kiwanis Tea Room with ice cream, hot dogs, freezies, and fries! They also have homemade sandwiches, hamburgers, baked items, coffee, and tea (since, of course, it is in Oak Bay). Though the book mentions its name owing to the long-ago Willows Fair that occurred nearby, it has been the site for decades now of the annual Oak Bay Tea Party with a charming parade of local bands, gymnasts, dancers, schools, service groups, as well as rides, food trucks, music, fireworks, and competitions (including the Teacup Race between the mayor and other dignitaries in tippy boats shaped like cups and saucers). But is this my regular swim beach? No. Though this beach is worth visiting – the view across the straits to Mt. Baker is spectacular – the water is too cold, the seaweed and algae growth can be off-putting, and recently the bacterial count too high. Hence, the excellent recommendation in the book of checking sites before going – so you are aware of health, environmental concerns, or crowds (like at the Oak Bay Tea Party).
Miracle Beach, located on the traditional territories of the Pentlatch and K’omoks Coast Salish people, hits the “Best of” lists three times – swimming and camping, cold dips, and sunsets! I have stayed at this great provincial park campground, but our family now favours close-by Williams Beach with its huge sandbar and lagoon (for warmer swimming). What makes this place so attractive is the beachside Alders Resort with rustic cabins but also the luxury of your own bathroom, kitchen, fireplace as well as so many things for kids to do – swings (especially the tire swing), a library cabin with games and books, tons of sand shovels, beach toys, ping pong, basketball, volleyball, and firepit to roast hot dogs and marshmallows. Bed linens and towels are provided, and there is a laundry for your own clothes. The Alders is private, but the beach is public. The sunsets at Miracle and Williams Beach are the best, but so are the sunrises!
As you can tell, I give special attention to places where children will be happy. Though no pools are listed on the “Best of” lists, if there were a category of “Best Pools,” Vancouver’s Kitsilano Pool would surely be there. In my opinion, it is an 11 on a 1-10 scale! I don’t even need my grandchildren to enjoy this place – huge pool (with shallow water for them and long laps for me), stunning views of the sea and mountains, lovely beach and great food nearby. In Stanley Park, there is a close second – Second Beach Pool as well as Second and Third Beaches (on the “Best of” list for long swims and sunsets). They are close to where millions of people live and can be crowded, but also easily reached by public transportation and have clearly been a boon to Westcoast living for generations. Kitsilano was officially named in 1905 after Chief August Jack Khahtsahlano, Xats’alanexw (a Squamish Chief though the recommended beaches at nearby Jericho, Locarno, and the Spanish Banks once had Musqueam indigenous villages). Further along at the edge of the University of British Columbia is one of the “Best of” clothing -optional beaches – Wreck Beach, a haven for naturists since the 1920s. Don’t let the photo with no people fool you. It too can be crowded on a hot summer day or for the Bare Buns Run.
On the opposite side of “easy for children” are suggestions like Garibaldi Lake, which requires a 10 km hike with a 1,080-meter elevation gain from the parking lot along Highway 99 (heading to world famous Whistler Resort). An overnight camping trip with outhouses, bear cashes, tent sites and cooking shelter makes it easier, and the site is on the “Best of” list for camping and swimming. The swim is rated “hard” and is billed as a quick, cold plunge. But it is worth it. Maybe the slogan “Beautiful British Columbia” was inspired by this area. Mount Garibaldi is known as Nch’kay and towers above the lake on the traditional territory of the Skwxwu7mesh (Squamish) people.
One of the bonuses of our times is the increasing awareness of access, and this book scores in alerting people to the distance from parking lots to water, steps, wheelchair mats, ramps, etc. I learned as a young mother with my children in strollers that the work done by people with disabilities enormously benefitted me – public washrooms with room for a child in a stroller to come into the cubicle with you and thus not freak out with your disappearance. Likewise, my gratefulness for ramp alternatives to stairs and lowered curbs, especially now as a senior. At so many beaches – like Willows Beach, Ross Bay, and Island View Beach – there are mats stretched over the beach so a resting area or the water can be reached for swimming by those with wheelchairs or other mobility devices (though tide and debris can hinder).
Usually not so accessible are potholes and Vancouver Island has many to offer. We have always loved Sooke Potholes, located on the unceded territory of the T’Souke First Nation, who called the river’s water “KWL-UCHUN,” meaning Spring Salmon Place. Though crowded on hot summer days, pools stretch out over a five-kilometer section of the river, so you can often find a less crowded place to swim. It is listed under the “Best of” for camping and swimming with a first come-first serve campground operated by the T’Souke First Nation.
One of the furthest afield recommendations is much loved Savary Island, along the Sunshine Coast and reached by water taxi from Lund, the most northernly settlement on Highway 101. From Vancouver one needs to drive 197 km and take two ferries (Horseshoe Bay-Langdale and Earl’s Cove-Saltery Bay), but along the way are eight other spots recommended in the book. During a recent visit to Powell River for the impressive Kathaumixw International Choir Festival, I had the good fortune to try lovely Inland Lake recommended on the “Best of” lists for camping and swimming as well as long swims. I have tried numerous places on this stretch of B.C. not mentioned in the book and know that the lakes and sea of the Sunshine Coast are winners for swimmers. However, mention Savary Island and many people swoon. It is on the traditional territory (land and water) of the Tla’amin Nation (as is Powell River, also called Qathet, and Cortes Island where outstanding Hague Lake is located). For 4,000 years before colonial contact, the Tla’amin inhabited a village called Ayhus, meaning “double-headed serpent”, perhaps referring to the crescent shape of the island. Whether you choose to swim in Keefer Bay on the north side or South Beach, you can dispense with water shoes and enjoy warm white sand and aquamarine water. My first visit was in a sailboat, and with all the boats there when we arrived, we anchored for the night, but by 9 pm all other boats had left. Fortunately, it was a calm night, but the island does not have protected coves and the wind can come up. The island is water-only accessed, has dirt roads and no electricity nor public toilets. There is a general store and the Savary Island Resort’s Mermaid Beach Club serves food, but better to be independently prepared, especially with drinking water.
For crushed white-shell sand, there are other island treasures, especially on the islands east of Vancouver Island. Hornby Island’s Tribune Bay, Galiano’s Montague Harbour, and Salt Spring Island’s Beddis Beach spring to mind. My memory of these unique and picturesque places is far superior to the photos in the book or in my own albums. So, I guess the point is to embrace these suggestions and try them for yourself. There are 100 swimming places listed in this book – more than I could possibly include here – and they just skim the surface (!) of what is available in southwestern B.C., because, as we all know, many great swimming places are not parks nor marked on maps. They may be near homes of friends or family or along one of our many rural roads.
We keep them secret.
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Christina Johnson-Dean graduated from the University of California, Berkeley (B.A. in History with Art minor) and then trained as a teacher. After three years teaching in public schools, she took her retirement money and travelled around the world, teaching in Thailand and New Zealand, before settling in Victoria. She completed a M.A. in History in Art and served as a teaching assistant as well as creating local art history courses for Continuing Education. Since 1987, she has been teaching in the Greater Victoria School District. Her publications include The Crease Family: A Record of Settlement and Service in British Columbia (1981), “B.C. Women Artists 1885-1920” in British Columbia Women Artists (Art Gallery of Greater Victoria, 1985) and three titles for Mother Tongue Publishing’s Unheralded Artists of B.C. series: The Life and Art of Ina D.D. Uhthoff (2012), The Life and Art of Edythe Hembroff-Schleicher (2013), and The Life and Art of Mary Filer (2016). In addition, she contributed to Love of the Salish Sea Islands with an article about Gambier Island (2019). [Editor’s Note: Christina Johnson-Dean has recently contributed a review of the Art Gallery of Greater Victoria’s current exhibition A View from Here, a retrospective essay of the life and art of Pnina Granirer, and reviewed books by I.S. MacLaren, Sonja Ahlers, Gary Sim, Robert Amos, and Kathryn Bridge.]
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The British Columbia Review
Interim Editors, 2023-26: Trevor Marc Hughes (non-fiction), Brett Josef Grubisic (fiction)
Publisher: Richard Mackie
Formerly The Ormsby Review, The British Columbia Review is an on-line book review and journal service for BC writers and readers. The Advisory Board now consists of Jean Barman, Wade Davis, Robin Fisher, Barry Gough, Hugh Johnston, Kathy Mezei, Patricia Roy, and Graeme Wynn. Provincial Government Patron (since September 2018): Creative BC. Honorary Patron: Yosef Wosk. Scholarly Patron: SFU Graduate Liberal Studies. The British Columbia Review was founded in 2016 by Richard Mackie and Alan Twigg.
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